
An earthy, warming seed that pulls a dish into focus.
In the pot
Whole seeds first, ground cumin later. Toss whole seeds into hot ghee or oil at the start of a cook and wait until they darken a shade and smell nutty. Ground cumin is added near the end, when the heat is lower, or it turns bitter.
The dal I cook most often begins with cumin seeds in ghee, then asafoetida, then the dal goes in. That first sizzle decides the whole pot.
In the body
Cumin carries the pungent and bitter tastes, and it kindles agni (digestive fire) without overheating. It suits all three doshas in moderate amounts and is the spice I would not be without.
I keep a small jar of dry-roasted, lightly ground cumin on the table, the way other kitchens keep pepper. A pinch over yoghurt or buttermilk settles a slow stomach.